A New Beginning

Tomorrow we restart the camino after a tiny break to see friends and travel to the starting point of our trip to our destination of Santiago. We're all wondering how it will turn out. Will we be as sore as we were at the begging? Or will we be in better shape than ever? Will we be in the same mindset as when we started? Or will we maintain a new outlook on the camino? Both are questions that will be answered tomorrow. I think that we'll be better off than before. After having some recovery time for our feet and legs, I think we'll be far more able to deal with the physical challenge. And after having some time to think and rest without physical exertion, I think we'll also be more mentally prepared. Don't get me wrong - it will be a challenge to get back into the swing of things. But I think that, overall, we're not hurt by our tiny break. Would waking straight through without a car trip be better? I don't know. But I think that no matter what, we will truly have a buen camino. :)

-Rachel

I hate being the one to hold back the group. Some might call me stubborn or say I'm too hard on myself, and they'd probably be right. I like to be the leader, and I can't stand being the person who is behind. This mentality makes it difficult to let myself rest, even when I'm sick or disabled. I know I'm being stupid, but I can't help it; that's just how I am.

Unfortunately I've been under such adverse circumstances since arriving in Spain. First, I got carsick on the way to St. Jean. Then, as a result of being sick, I left my iPod in the taxi. Finally, yesterday I got a blister on my little toe that makes it extremely painful to walk in boots. I walked 18 km today in flip flop sandals. 

The message that these circumstances hav reinforced is simply the fact that my body and mind are stronger than I thought. At first when I got my blister and had trouble walking, I wanted to go back and rest. I felt sorry for myself. Then, realizing how that option would have effected the group, I made myself suck it up and walk. After a few kilometers hiking (in sandals) I was fine.

If the Camino wants to tell me something through these experiences, it is that, if I take care of my body appropriately, it can do whatever I want it to. Despite being sick to my stomach the day before, I managed to hike 8 km on the first day to arrive at Orisson. Despite having sore, blistered feet, I walked 19 km today. If I can do those things while sick, what can't I do when at full strength?

Has the Camino taught me to be comfortable in the back of the group? No, not really. Has it taught me to be patient with my body's demands? Still no. I don't think the Camino has changed my viewpoint so much as it has taugh me my potential. Although those other traits are important, I'll need more work to achieve them. For now, I'm happy that I've had the opportunity to test and strengthen myself. 

By Alex 

The Spanish Gourmet: A Guide to the Cuisine of Navarra

Day 6 - Cizur Menor to Puenta la Reina

Over the past few days, I've come to a somewhat surprising realization: Spanish food is shockingly devoid of tortillas, salsa, guacamole, and all the other staples that Americans (or at least I) assume that Spanish people eat. Instead, I've found Spanish food to be quite similar to French cuisine. Bread, meat and wine are quintessential. This post will detail the many meals I've enjoyed in Spain.

On the night before the Camino began, we were not in Spain at all, but in the town of St. Jean Pied-de-Port, France. While there, I ate vegetable soup and baked trout, complete with skin and heads. These two items, rare in the US, are actually pretty common in France and Spain. The trout is salty and bony, but nice tasting when you pick the meat out. The vegetable soup was excellent on this and every other occasion when I had it. 

The most common lunch option in Spain is, by far, the boccadillo. A boccadillo is a sandwich of meat and cheese on a fresh baguette. Although not as packed with vegetables as an American Subway sandwich, I find boccadillos to be much tastier. The ingredients are fresher. I've eaten at least one boccadillo every day since I've been here, and they have all been excellent. 

Tapas is considered to be the most recognizably "Spanish" food. Basically, tapas are appetizers ordered a la carte, like sushi. We ate tapas for dinner in Pamplona. I think it would have been better at a nicer restaurant, but our selections were good. 

Overall, Spain's food is very good, featuring simple choices made from the freshest ingredients. Spain is also known for its wine production. Regardless of where you are, you can always order a good bottle of red wine for cheap. As I'm now 18, the legal drinking age in Spain, I've taken the opportunity to drink the wine served to pilgrims. My favorite wine so far was a red wine we had at our first albergue. It had a very light flavor, while some of the other wines I've tasted were akin to being punched in the face. My mom probably thinks I'll turn into a wino now, but overall I've enjoyed tasting the product that this region of the world is famous for producing.

The food and drink in Spain are excellent, and as a result I've been eating constantly since I arrived. I think I'll go do that now, in fact. Bye! 

By Alex

Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona

Last night was in Pensione Goikoa.  We had our own 4 person room with a shared bath.  Breakfasted in room, eating food from the grocery across the street and we were ready to leave by  around 7:30AM.  Late by most peregrino standards.  As we left Zubiri, Rachel noticed what she dubbed transport pilgrims- people walking and carrying only tiny daypacks since the rest of their stuff was transported.  And that kind if set the time for the day- a bit grumpy.  It also didn't help that during what was supposed to be "teamwork time", Pat and Alex took off way far ahead.  We walked about 1 1/1 hours to Larrasoana, where we stopped for coffee  (not me - I'm so glad I'm not addicted to coffee) and an endless breakfast at Casa Elata.  It was nice- great little cream doughnuts and croissants.  Then second breakfast for some- boccadillos.  Alex played piano and the owner loved him.  We left around 10AM, basically for the long trek to Pamplona through various small hamlets.  It all seemed to go up!!!   Thankfully we made it to Irotz at the point where everyone's feet needed a break.  At the beautiful natural water park we all soaked our feet, and made lunch for those that did not eat 2 breakfasts.  We sat for probably an hour, and then started down the trail- of course up again!!!  It was really, really hot- hence why most pilgrims leave really early to avoid the heat. Our next target was Arre. Along the way we saw 2 guys selling drinks on the trail.  Thank goodness- after water, orange juice and ice tea we were somewhat revived.  Poor Rachel on the trail.  She said she didn't know why she was doing the worst of everyone.  I don't think she was that much worse- only she was willing to admit it.

Probably only 1/2 hour after the drinks we made it to Arre - which I thought would be a cute village, but it is a suburb of Pamplona. Not very nice- I'm really glad we didn't stay there.  But, it meant that we still had at least 5k to Pamplona.

The last stretch to Pamplona was really hot, through city streets and not really well marked.  But we finally made it to the city walls and found our way into Pamplona.  Hotel Eslava is almost at the opposite end of where we entered the old city so we had about 1/2 mile to go.  Remember that grump theme?  I'm glad we made it through fairly quickly, found our hotel and collapsed.  After about a 2 or 3 hour rest, showers and all that, we set out for a look around the city and Tapas.   

Dinner helped the energy level. 

 So day 4.  Was it good or bad?  I'm not sure. But it certainly seemed to evaporate  in breakneck pace. And I'm not sure anyone is hearing the spirituality that the Camino offers.  I hope that changes as tomorrow is a really short walking day- only 5k- after Mass and a good lunch of hopefully paella.

I am reading lots of posts on the American Pilgrims on the Camino Facebook page and they are so much more insightful then this boring account above.  Even all my other travel blogs have been more insightful.  I hope I can get into a better rhythm soon.