Saturday, August 17, 2013

Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona

Last night was in Pensione Goikoa.  We had our own 4 person room with a shared bath.  Breakfasted in room, eating food from the grocery across the street and we were ready to leave by  around 7:30AM.  Late by most peregrino standards.  As we left Zubiri, Rachel noticed what she dubbed transport pilgrims- people walking and carrying only tiny daypacks since the rest of their stuff was transported.  And that kind if set the time for the day- a bit grumpy.  It also didn't help that during what was supposed to be "teamwork time", Pat and Alex took off way far ahead.  We walked about 1 1/1 hours to Larrasoana, where we stopped for coffee  (not me - I'm so glad I'm not addicted to coffee) and an endless breakfast at Casa Elata.  It was nice- great little cream doughnuts and croissants.  Then second breakfast for some- boccadillos.  Alex played piano and the owner loved him.  We left around 10AM, basically for the long trek to Pamplona through various small hamlets.  It all seemed to go up!!!   Thankfully we made it to Irotz at the point where everyone's feet needed a break.  At the beautiful natural water park we all soaked our feet, and made lunch for those that did not eat 2 breakfasts.  We sat for probably an hour, and then started down the trail- of course up again!!!  It was really, really hot- hence why most pilgrims leave really early to avoid the heat. Our next target was Arre. Along the way we saw 2 guys selling drinks on the trail.  Thank goodness- after water, orange juice and ice tea we were somewhat revived.  Poor Rachel on the trail.  She said she didn't know why she was doing the worst of everyone.  I don't think she was that much worse- only she was willing to admit it.

Probably only 1/2 hour after the drinks we made it to Arre - which I thought would be a cute village, but it is a suburb of Pamplona. Not very nice- I'm really glad we didn't stay there.  But, it meant that we still had at least 5k to Pamplona.

The last stretch to Pamplona was really hot, through city streets and not really well marked.  But we finally made it to the city walls and found our way into Pamplona.  Hotel Eslava is almost at the opposite end of where we entered the old city so we had about 1/2 mile to go.  Remember that grump theme?  I'm glad we made it through fairly quickly, found our hotel and collapsed.  After about a 2 or 3 hour rest, showers and all that, we set out for a look around the city and Tapas.   

Dinner helped the energy level. 

 So day 4.  Was it good or bad?  I'm not sure. But it certainly seemed to evaporate  in breakneck pace. And I'm not sure anyone is hearing the spirituality that the Camino offers.  I hope that changes as tomorrow is a really short walking day- only 5k- after Mass and a good lunch of hopefully paella.

I am reading lots of posts on the American Pilgrims on the Camino Facebook page and they are so much more insightful then this boring account above.  Even all my other travel blogs have been more insightful.  I hope I can get into a better rhythm soon.

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